VOL. 2 ISSUE 7
NOVEMBER 2026
Old Monk. Screen capture with an orange background
Arun Kapil, Food Editor of Ars Notoria , is a punk food poet and founded and owns a spice company, Green Saffron Spices. He works sustainably direct with partner farms mainly to the west and north of India and some in the south. He works directly from source and owns total chain of custody. Arun and his partner Olive began by selling one or two sachets a week of bespoke blends with accompanying recipes at a farmers market stall in Mahon Point, Cork.
A LITTLE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT
The cook, the whiskey, his wife and her unflappable helpers
“Can you freeze butter?”
We had arrived on 23rd December to find a mountain of it, accompanied by sufficient vegetables to suggest that Christmas lunch had quietly acquired a second sitting for the village.
“Don’t worry,” I said. “We might use it all yet.”
I had brought my knives, a bottle of Powers from Cork and the confidence of a man who had submitted his menu to the family WhatsApp group in November, obtained approval and followed up with a shopping inventory. We take Christmas lunch seriously. There are procedures.
The kitchen was beautiful. Lovely appliances. Largely untested in the matter of feeding sixteen. At the sink stood a tap capable of supplying boiling or ice-cold water according to a sequence of gestures I never mastered. By the time we left, I could have explained the gravy to you in considerable detail. The tap remained classified information.
I love cooking Christmas lunch. My brothers and I have been doing it since the early nineties, when Mum and Dad spent Christmas morning at the Care Homes, handing presents to residents. We began by getting the preparation done. Gradually, we took on the whole thing. A useful contribution became a tradition.
This was before Ballymaloe, before cooking became my working life. I was already keen. Possibly keen enough to be given something to do before I suggested anything else.
Over the years, we developed our departments. I handle the meat and have drifted into overall kitchen command. One brother looks after drinks, starters, organisation and the considerable business of making everyone welcome. The other has devoted years to the roast potato: variety, method, timing, the exact point at which a crisp, earthy nugget should leave the oven and enter a warmed serving dish. His vegetable purées are equally considered. Swede or turnip, chicken stock, butter, a little chilli, cream to finish.
Helpers come and go. Someone sits and chats while preparing sprouts. Someone finds a bowl. It reminds me of Mum, her sister and Nana getting on with things, generational conversations running alongside the knife work.
Photograph Arun Kapil
We know we go over the top. This is our time together. The table heaves because we want people fed, delighted, offered another spoonful. Afterwards come several days of grazing: cold slices, reheated vegetables, leftovers persuaded into another shape. The extravagance has a reasonably long working life.
I love the ceremony around the main event – ordering the Norfolk Bronze. Collecting it from the local shop full of festive filled locals completing their Christmas shopping list. And, once back in the kitchen, covering it with slabs of flavoured butter, a little spice, citrus zest, herbs, bacon and trussing.
By Christmas Eve, the red cabbage, mash, stuffing and carrots were either cooked and ready for reheating or prepped and ready for the pot. Butcher-bought indulgences set aside in the fridge. Things were under control. I offer that observation with the benefit of believing in the moment.
The parsnips required attention. I had seen an Adam Byatt reel showing him preparing them with beautifully smoothed edges, cooked in butter beneath a cartouche. Naturally, I found room for rum and jaggery.
MEMOIR & PERSONAL HISTORY
A Little Christmas Spirit
Arun Kapil. A delicious reflection on the Christmas holiday en famile; with cooking and eating at the heart of the celebrations.
The Catfish, the Cormorant and the Vanishing Barbel
Paul Halas. on threatened river ecosystems in England.
At Home in the Himalayas
Sudeep Sen. An essay on the mountain solitude of a poet, on finding sanctuary.
Part 9: Looking Ahead
David Yip. The ninth chapter of his memoir, ending it and looking toward to the future.
Diwali Chocolates
Yogesh Patel. A personal essay and recipe piece combining making chocolates with reflections on Diwali and a ‘chocolate poem’.
Calaverita to the Politicians
Ulises Paniagua Olivares. An essay on Mexican Day of the Dead customs using the traditional calaverita form, and a calaverita written by Ulises Paniagua satirising politicians.
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